Friday 3 October 2014

Holy Land Tour - A Panoramic View


“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes”- Marcel Proust

Holy Land Tour -  A Panaromic view

In the days when others have ventured to tour the holy land I had always wondered what is there that enthuses people to visit this place. We all know the historical and biblical references to places in Israel, Jordan, Palestine and Egypt. Besides this why do people crave to be there putting aside health adversities and hazards as well as staggeringly weak and creaking  knees at an age when we are usually busy winding up the business end of life.
My mom still rues the missed opportunity and brings up the topic whenever anyone informs her about an impeding trip to the Holy Land. In short Christians and more so from Kerala would give their right hand to make a trip to the Holy Land. As I reservedly and secretly frowned at my wife for jumping at an announcement made in the Church for a group visit to the Holy Land, I accompanied her more as a companion than seek solace in the humble and searing solace and biblical nostalgia of the place.

A group comprises of various people with varied tastes and habits, with commonality being the bonding influence of the church in our case. Thankfully our group of Fifty five was just enough to fill the travel coaches in Jordan and Israel giving optimum results to the tour operator and individual purses. This group consisted of eager and enthusiastic travellers young and old, firm and infirm, but the spirit of the land kept us all in animated enthusiasm and allowed us to complete the tour unhindered.
The journey started on 15th September morning when we flew in to Abu Dhabi en route to Amman, Jordan. What I am going to describe from here on is what will flow from the heart without any frill and frolic. This short article will try to present an unbiased individuals flow of emotions that start draining from the inner self without any prompting or make believe circumstances. A flow that starts with the slightest of reference and continues till the brain stops mapping the entire journey undertaken.

In Jordan we were met by our tour operator and the coach was standing aside for our journey. What struck me as I landed at the Queen Alia International Airport in Amman was the unoccupied space in front of me. In fact till date this is the least busy airport that I have come across. One immediately feels for the people of Jordan especially after having to fight for a place to stretch out at the Abu Dhabi Airport.  The ride through the countryside further explains the scanty representation in the countryside and on the roads be it with people, animal, vehicles or other forms of traffic. It looked as if space was aplenty and people and events sparsely populated. One feels sorry for the empty spaces and wished the country more bounty in terms of commerce, tourism and other allied activities.
The place we visited besides an overnight stay in Amman the capital city of Jordan was Madaba an old Christian habitation from the days of old till this day on our way to Mount Nebo. Here on display is the mosaic map of the Holy land made from over 2 million pieces of mosaic and dating back to centuries. Mount Nebo rightly gives us a view of the Holy Land from high up, the path that Moses and his group must have taken on their way to the ‘Promised Land’. Looking down you feel weary and forlorn when you mentally try to go back in time with Moses and his group, the hardships encountered on the way, the murmuring, the dissatisfaction, the cursing and the grunting that went along, but your heart also fills up thinking on the wondrous ways of the Lord, how he fulfilled the demands of his people, how miraculously he guided his people over treacherous territory for long years through lands that is synonymous to wilderness.

The serpent cross a reminder of what needs to be done to feel whole, repentance and penance stick out sorely on this mount and is a testimony to modern times. Faced with unsurmountable obstacles and tales of difficulties we must learn to reflect back at our actions, plan a new course and seek to overturn all that has not been for common good. Looking down from the mountains at barren stretches makes one sympathize with the Israelites who walked with Moses to the ‘Promised Land’. The fact that they cribbed and cried for water, the death and destruction that one can imagine from long stays in this mangled land can all be taken from atop the mount. By the way water is still a scare resource in these parts and water is expensive and often does not come free with a travel package in abundance. Lunch was good (because the chef made kebabs for us) and we tucked in enough to propel us on our journey mostly through barren land marked by mountains and difficult terrain.
The road down the mountain takes us to the Jordan border (Sheikh Hussain Bridge) and then on to Israel. Our tour operator had warned us and prepared us to answer queries put forth by the immigration officials so that the group sounded in unison as originating from one place and having common intentions. However, when we got to the Israeli side we were surprised by the welcome we received. I also learnt how pretence of ignorance is sometimes better than being proudly knowledgeable.

A few people in our group feigned ignorance of the English language and told the immigration officials so on being asked if they understood English, which led them to be cleared instantly without further ado. Keen observers in our group latched on to this theory and by the time we were through a good number in our group were pretenders of the ‘do not know English brigade’.  I have always questioned the Immigration officials in all countries who look menacing and eager to deport each one who lands in his/her country, but here they seemed eager, young, enthusiastic, eagle eyed and thorough professionals.
On our way out of India we were surprised by our own immigration official a gentleman who grilled one of our group members when she was travelling with the group where her husband was included and when our own parish priest (our mentor and travel guide for this tour) was standing with all relevant papers waving it for all immigration officials to see. This seemed as a more unwanted irritation, especially since there were an entire group that had gone through the immigration barriers before this member, all on the strength of the travel papers being waved.

Never mind this small irritant on our journey, the hotel we reached on the Israeli side as evening enveloped was in Tiberius by the shore of the river Galilee which gave us a fantastic view of the other side comprising of distant lights which we were told represented Jordan to one side and the Golan heights of Syria on the other side. The sparkling night lights added to the mesmerizing effect of being encircled in divinity in the land of our lord. Breakfast was as always sumptuous and we started off with a visit to the baptismal sight of Jesus where he was baptised by John the Baptist on the banks of the Jordan River. 
I am sure that some of us could visualize Jesus of Nazareth with his cloak, beard and long hair and the familiar portrayal; others would deepen their thoughts to feel one with Jesus as he stood there in obedience. Another way of going down memory lane would be to reminisce on our own baptisms and those of our children and grandchildren and wows taken, the solid exponentially surfacing life thereafter and the grimacing in the past.

The church of annunciation where it is believed Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary and announced the virgin birth, the house where Jesus lived with his Mother Mary and Joseph, the Carpenter workshop where Jesus assisted his father in his work. In fact all these are caves and one must remember that during those times there were no houses as we know them now, instead people lived in caves carved out for human living and customised for comfort.
Next in line was the Cana wedding place where we clamoured to buy the supposedly original wine. The wine jars where Jesus produced wine out of water they say was originally six in number but what stands out is just one of them enclosed in a glass enclosure a solitary witness to time and space brutalized by the various men and kings who rode triumphantly through this land in search of personal glory and victory.

The Church of Beatitudes, where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount, the Church of Multiplication where Jesus multiplied the five loaves and two fishes to feed the vast multitude are all under the care of various church denominations and it is not always feasible to have an exclusive view during short tours and choreographed visits. Most of the time these places are taken up for worship services for small groups of peoples, mostly foreigners who want to experience the peace and tranquillity that prevails in such paces especially when purged in to the  background of the biblical teachings and scriptures. However we did seek our peace and reflected on our Sunday school days as we stood in revered silence to celebrate the times and miracles of Jesus Christ.
Next we visited Capernaum where Jesus lived during a large part of his active later life when he preached in the synagogue living at Peter’s mother in laws place. The remains of the village can be seen sprawled in the background of modern day structures over these historical monuments the white synagogue a mute spectator to the ruins of time and the numerous visitors who throng looking for spaces in which to capture history confining them to their photo frames. Finally to the church of St Peter’s Primacy where Jesus Stood on the shore after resurrection and ordered Peter and his friends to cast their net on the other side which gathered them 153 fishes when they strove the entire night and did not catch a single fish.

Ah! I just remembered we had lunch at a restaurant where the special attraction was Peter’s fish, a sad reminder of the euphoria that can go bust because everyone thought it will be fried the Kerala way patted with oil and spices, but missed the excitement at the sight of two huge fishes bland in nature many leaving it unexplored.
After discovering Israel, we proceeded to Bethlehem to have a look at life across the check points from the Palestinian side. Please remember that most of the Christian sites are under the administrative area designated to the self-rule of the Palestinians. The drive along the Mediterranean Sea to Haifa the port city of Israel was a long drive, but what awaited us at the end of the journey was a grand view over the Mediterranean Sea, further up the final resting place of the founder of the Baha’i faith, Bahaullah, with a beautiful temple and an even majestic garden that leads up to this Baha’i temple. Then over to the Shepherds field, St Peter’s church which has the cock in a crowing position atop the dome, a walk along the path where Jesus rode a donkey into Jerusalem with people singing Hosanna. Not to be outdone we also set off with an imaginary Jesus on the donkey singing Hosanna.

The church of Dominos Flevit from where Jesus wept over Jerusalem, the garden of Gethsemane, where Judas betrayed Jesus, the prison cell where Jesus was kept overnight before being presented in front of Pontius Pilate, the tomb and the resting place of King David, a most holy place for the Jews, the Upper room where the last supper took place, we were blessed to have a full Marthoma service at this place complete with Qurbana (holy Communion). This is the first Christian church in the world and we felt proud inheritors of this legacy.
The church of visitation atop a steep incline is the place where Mary went to meet Elizabeth on hearing that her cousin was expecting.  The tomb of Lazarus in Bethany needed to descend a steep two floors into the tomb and finally make a crawl to reach the tomb.  The Church of Nativity just outside our Hotel presented a glimpse of the birthplace of our Lord and we were witness to a local wedding taking place there with the church a beautiful place to behold complete with decked flowers all along both sides of the pew leading up to the altar.  

The St. Anne’s church and the pool of Bethesda where Jesus healed the infirm man who could not get into the waters on his own in spite of visiting the site for long years was a pleasant sight and we sang a wonderful group song which exploded in the serenity and calmness of the place, so much so that the Caretaker priest of Belgian origin requested a ‘once more’ for the song. The walk along the Stations of the Cross leading to Calvary and the tomb where Jesus was laid, followed by a trek to the wailing wall, from where one could have a panoramic view of the tomb over Solomon’s temple where  the Muslims believe prophet Mohammed is buried followed by a ride to the oldest city in the world Jericho, where the sycamore fig tree where Zachariah climbed to view Jesus, and the inn along the way where the Samaritan took the injured man for treatment, the mount of temptation all were treats that abounded in spirituality and made us feel less taller than our normal self.
The cry, pain, insult, whippings, betrayals were all inscribed in these places and could be seen and felt by those who had a moment to reflect on the scriptures and the bible readings. This pain oozed from every pore of the walls along the route forming a capsule to encapsulate with time deep within our hearts and embedded in memory. A surge of emotion creeps along as you match step to step with Jesus on his way to the crucifixion. You feel helpless, but gather a strong surge to be a La Peter whipping out our swords to cut off the enemies who dared torture our Lord.

But this surge subsides as you grapple and digest the fact that but for this sacrifice, we wouldn’t be whole, and our sins would stick to us like wounds to a leper. This was destined, prophesied and had to come about for the salvation of mankind, for me and you for the ones who came before us, for the next generation and for the present day living. Here we bid adieu to our guide a Palestinian and a Muslim who was well versed in the Holy Scripture passages and events related to the tour and had immense networking skills. A word on the plight of Palestinians in the West Bank, where they are under perpetual scrutiny of the Israelis, bounded and hounded from all sides, suffocating and isolated to the core, so much so that they have to travel all the way to Amman to fly out of the country. 
The Dead Sea is dead literally, stagnant waters saturated with salt, clay under your feet, shallow waters with folks sometimes stepping into places on the sea bed that allowed your feet to have the sinking effect on quicksand. For people like me who could never master the art of swimming, it was a god sent opportunity to show off that you could stay afloat irrespective of body weight. It was an opportunity to satisfy the soul putting you at par with others in clearer waters stroking their way like a fish. Believers could have a mud bath, with the firm belief that it would rid you off your skin problems. Photographs clicked during these sessions would surprise you later and add hilarious value to your photo archives and retired life adding life and giggles to stories told during time spent on the lawns with your grandchildren.

From there we left for Egypt along the road where Lot’s wife is transfixed as a salt mound in the mountains, a mute testimony to the doubting and dithering believers. At the Taba border our driver who sang Hosanna along with us and said the lord’s prayer in Aramaic, and an ardent church goer hooted his horns bidding us goodbye, with his departure we suddenly felt unsure and uncertain since he was our only connect through a long journey to the border.
Nevertheless, across the border we were greeted by our Egyptian agent and guide who took us on the long journey to Cairo, passing under the Suez Canal on our way. Finally we neared the end of the Sinai area where we stopped for the night. All along the path we followed the Red Sea to the south. The sunrise over the Red Sea was a pleasant and nourishing sight which embedded into the archives of our memory. From here after an early breakfast proceeded to Cairo a painstakingly long and boring journey sometimes under police escort ( as per prevalent laws for safety  of tourists) which is affirmed due to the treacherously barren and lifeless distorted landscape that one encounters as you pass along. Lunch though a little unsettling was had at Sharm el- Sheikh the town notable for peace deals and where ex-President Hosni Mubarak is imprisoned in absolute luxury.

The Sinai mountain area provides an apt example of a cursed land, without life, movement, and landscape distorted to a level of repulsion. At Cairo we were reminded of the hustle and bustle of India compared to Israel which seemed an organised place and a developed country. In Cairo we got a glimpse of the eager population of Egypt cramming into every nook and corner of the city, where laws take a back seat and where the population descends on the street, each nudging its way through the maddening thicket of traffic and mangled crowd.
The Cairo museum was a wonderful place to see and feel the most ancient civilization in the world, with the Tahrir square right outside, a reminder of the political evolution in Egypt. The final day we set out to explore the pyramids and the sphinx before departing for home. Our Egyptian guide was noticeable for his defence of the country and its political evolution, pho pooing foreign news channel reports of unrest, massacre of democracy and trampling of people’s rights, besides overthrowing of an elected government. He was a patriotic to the core an ardent advocate of his country, promising us that things would drastically improve on our next visit and that his government has taken all necessary steps to get the oldest civilization at par and on course to a developing nation.

This journey helped us to reflect on the scriptures, re-emphasise the places and events and broaden our understanding of the life and times of Jesus. The pains and exultations, the rebuke and the joy, the tears and the miracles are all transfixed in our eyes and mind. A must visit site for all Christians at least once in a lifetime. For those of you who have missed out on this occasion, make amends for this is the ‘Mecca’ of the Christians worldwide.
Finally a word of thanks and praise for our Tour agent Abey (John Abraham) from Dubai who accompanied us on the tour and made it memorable in spite of having to double up as tour organiser,  guide, friend, cheerleader and hand holder to our elder folks, our Parish Priest Rev. Dr P P Thomas a scholar in the Old testament who aided us on the tour by taking us down the scripture passages and assimilating places and events to daily life and routine, prodding us into linking thoughts and emotions with our daily itinerary exhorting each one of us to ponder over this visit and incorporate changes where needed.

What started off as a leisure sightseeing trip ended up as a ‘must see’ for me, possessed by the magnificent overawing spirit and a lasting feel of the place, reasons why I recommend it as a must visit place for every Christian and historically inclined traveller irrespective of their bindings at least once in a life time.
Robin Varghese - robin_vargh@yahoo.com

28th September 2014

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